Утепление межэтажных перекрытий в деревянном доме: Утепление межэтажного перекрытия по деревянным балкам для первого этажа над подвалом, второго и выше

Утепление межэтажного перекрытия по деревянным балкамСодержание   

Утепление межэтажных перекрытий как и фасадный декор из пенопласта с покрытием это процесс, который необходим для улучшения их теплоизоляционных и звукоизоляционных свойств. Особенно это касается перекрытий, что устроены на деревянных балках.

Подобные конструкции часто встречаются как в относительно старых домах, так и в новых строениях. Их особенность в очень простой схеме установки, но на выходе мы получаем только перекрытие из досок и балок. Оно не способно качественно разделить пространство внутри дома.

Утепление деревянного балочного перекрытия минеральной ватой

Именно поэтому так много времени уделяют утеплению межэтажного перекрытия по деревянным балкам.

1 Особенности и назначение

Перекрытие по деревянным балкам чаще всего монтируют в деревянных домах. Однако это не есть правило, от которого нельзя отступать. Такие перекрытия часто встречаются и в других зданиях подобного типа.

Не пользуются ими только в монолитных строениях, каркасных домах и других зданиях, что возводились с помощью серьезных технологий.

А все потому что перекрытия по деревянным балкам можно устанавливать по очень простой процедуре. По сути, от вас требуется только арендовать кран малой грузоподъемности (подойдет практически любая модель автомобильного крана со стрелой) и несколько помощников.

Вся работа заключается в монтаже деревянных балок с теплоизоляцией Baswool с определенным шагом и в определенном направлении. Балки монтируются легко, обрабатывать их тоже можно без особого труда. Да и чтобы создать по ним покрытие достаточно просто настелить поверх балок доски нужного размера.

Если сравнивать с постройкой частного дома из железобетонных блоков, то разница очевидна. В работе не требуется использовать мощное оборудование, большое количество техники и т.д.

Неудивительно, что перекрытия деревянного типа стали столь популярны в сфере частного строительства, особенно если мы говорим о легких летних строениях.

Проблема состоит в том, что перекрытие по балкам с пеноплексом и пенопластом не имеет достаточной плотности. Это просто несущая конструкция (несущим элементом здесь выступают сами балки), на которую с одной или двух сторон набили дощатый настил. Как вы сами понимаете, эта конструкция выполняет только ограждающую функцию.

Утепление и звукоизоляцию вам придется делать самостоятельно. Причем в обязательном порядке.

Балки в качестве основания для будущего перекрытия

Утеплять необходимо полость между балками. Как правило, сверху и снизу их забивают досками. В крайнем случае, настил есть только сверху. Но большого значения это не придает.

В любом случае такое перекрытие не будет удерживать тепло, или гасить шумы от проходящих по нему людей. Если вы когда-нибудь слышали, как на втором этаже деревянного дома скрипят соседи, то знайте, наверняка они ходят по обычному балочному перекрытию межэтажного типа.

Непосредственно утепление выполняется с помощью специальных материалов. Использовать можно разные технологии. Для межэтажных перекрытий толщина утеплителя не играет столь большой роли.

Это в большинстве случаев объясняется тем, что на разных этажах дома, как правило, держится примерно одинаковая температура. Но случаи бывают всякие. Да и каждый строитель скажет вам, что утепление точно не повредит.

Качественная теплоизоляция конструкций всегда положительно сказывается на комфорте внутри дома. Особенно тех образцов конструкций, которые не отличаются особенными теплоизоляционными свойствами.
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1.1 Виды утеплителей для перекрытий по деревянным балкам

Утеплитель для балок в деле теплоизоляции перекрытий в частном доме имеет огромное влияние. Так, правильно подобранный материал поможет вам выполнить качественное утепление в доме, и сэкономить существенную сумму денег. Серьезные же промахи тоже отразятся как на качестве результата, так и на денежных затратах.

Сейчас на рынке есть огромное количество различных, с помощью которых выполняется утепление перекрытий в частном доме.

Чаще всего пользуются:

• Минеральной ватой.
• Пенопластом.
• Блоки из пеностекла.
• Экструдированным пенополистиролом.
• Пеноизолом.
• Засыпными материалами.
  

  Межэтажное перекрытие, утепленное пеноизолом

О минеральной вате много рассказывать не нужно. В конце концов – это одна из самых популярных моделей утеплителя на данный момент. Минеральная вата не горит в огне (а это очень важный показатель, ведь мы имеем дело с деревянными балками) предоставляет прекрасную защиту от потерь тепла и шумоизоляцию.

Причем по показателям шумоизоляции она может считаться самым удачным материалом. Ни один другой утеплитель, так хорошо шумы гасить не способен.

Но есть у ваты и несколько недостатков. Первый – она быстро набухает при контакте с водой. Для утепления межэтажных перекрытий этот параметр не всегда имеет значение, так как в домах у нас, как правило, сухо и уютно. А вот если вы собрались утеплять чердак, то тут уже придется призадуматься.

Второй момент заключается в том, что утепление ватой как и фольгированным утеплителем может обойтись вам в хорошенькую сумму. Почти наверняка этот процесс будет самым дорогим. По стоимости с ним может посоревноваться разве что работа с пеноизолом, но там надо учитывать необходимость привлечения к работе специалистов со спец. оборудованием.

Пенопластом в наших краях тоже пользуются, и довольно часто. По показателям теплопроводности он не уступает минеральной вате, а вот шумы гасит на порядок хуже.

Есть различия и в недостатках этого утеплителя. С одной стороны, он совершенно не реагирует на влагу, не вбирает воду и может нормально эксплуатироваться, даже если вами было задумано утепление ванной комнаты. С другой же, пенопласт уязвим к возгоранию и высоким температурам.

Если в деревянном доме пойдет что-то не так, то перекрытие с утеплением из пенопласта может существенно усложнить задачу пожаротушения. Или и вовсе стать причиной возгорания. Такие ситуации случаются крайне редко, но они бывают, и их надо заранее отметить.

Экструдированный пенополистирол – это тот же пенопласт, только прошедший процесс экструзии. После переплавки под давлением и с высокими температурами на выходе получается более плотный материал. Он намного прочнее, выдерживает серьезные нагрузки и по показателям теплоизоляции превышает все вышеназванные модели.

Основа балочного перекрытия, готова к утеплению

Проблема пенополистирола как и некоторых других материалов для утепления потолка такого типа в его цене и неспособности гасить шумы.

Пеноизол – это распыляемый утеплитель из искусственной пены, что замешана с углекислым газом. На выходе получается пенистый материал, что легко наносится и сцепляется с поверхностью. После разбрызгивания пеноизол набухает также, как это происходит с монтажной пеной.

В результате получается очень плотный материал, с прекрасными теплоизоляционными свойствами и хорошей структурой.

В отличие от других утеплителей, пеноизолом коробку перекрытия из балок можно залить полностью, при этом не беспокоясь о несоответствии форм и предварительной подготовке.

Пена попросту забьет все щели и участки, тем самым формируя качественное заполнение пустот.

В качестве засыпного теплоизолятора часто используют керамзит, древесную стружку и т.д. В современном частном доме такими способами пользуются редко. Этот утеплитель довольно тяжелый, сыпучий, может даже иметь специфический запах (хотя он легко удаляется).

Хотя если говорить о частном строительстве дач или других подобных зданий, то использование засыпных утеплителей может быть оправдано. Ведь весь их монтаж на утепление потолков в частном доме заключается в установке гидроизоляции, а затем засыпки утеплителя, и обходится он крайне дешево.
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2 Технология утепления перекрытия

Пример обустройства теплоизоляционного пирога перекрытий по балкам

Теперь обратимся непосредственно к технологии утепления перекрытий. На самом деле, здесь нет ничего сложного. Более того, наличие балок и основания уже упрощает работу.

Ведь в большинстве случаев вам не придется монтировать дополнительный каркас или что-то подобное. Достаточно просто будет заполнить полость между балками утеплителем и слоями изоляции, а затем забить ее досками.

Этапы работы при утеплении межэтажного перекрытия со стороны пола:

1. Подготавливаем перекрытие, при необходимости вскрываем дощатый настил.
2. Подготавливаем утеплитель и все необходимые материалы.
3. Настилаем слой пароизоляции. Работать можно с Изоспаном или любой другой подходящей пароизоляционной пленкой.
4. Устанавливаем утеплитель.
5. Укладываем слой гидроизоляции, если в этом есть необходимость.
6. Забиваем полость досками.
7. Настилаем финишное покрытие.

Если утеплять нужно со стороны потолка, то здесь технология практически идентична. Только гидроизоляция вам, скорее всего, вообще не понадобится. А если и понадобится, то ее под покрытие будут монтировать первой.

Затем пойдет слой утеплителя, который крепят дюбелями к основаниям балок, а потом уже пароизоляционная пленка.

В работе с утеплителями на основании из пенополистирола в наличии пароизоляционной пленки нет большой необходимости. Тут уже надо оценивать общую ситуацию.
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2.1 Монтаж утеплителя в межэтажное перекрытие (видео)

90000 Floor insulation: how to make your home warmer by insulating old floors 90001 90002 In the quest to make our homes warmer and more efficient, floor insulation is often overlooked. Unfortunately, in old homes this is a common place for heat to escape, so it’s worth thinking about how insulation can make them more thermally efficient, hold heat for longer and protect your home from damp. 90003 90002 Original floors represent a precious link with the past — their wonderful undulations and patina of age telling of the passage of generations of feet and the knocks and spills of everyday life.So the challenge is to add insulation without destroying the character of the original flooring. 90003 90002 It’s also important that insulating floors does not cause dampness within the structure, which may result in decay and damage over time. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90011 Lifting original tiles to add floor insulation can be detrimental to their character and needs to be tackled with the utmost care. Number them to ensure they are relaid in the same positions 90012 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90016 Which type of floor? 90017 90002 Floors are constructed in two ways, either suspended or solid.90019 Suspended timber floors 90020 consist of floorboards nailed to joists, often carried on ‘sleeper’ walls of brick. It is important that the underside of a suspended floor is ventilated to avoid the build up of moisture. 90003 90002 To achieve this, grilles are incorporated at the base of the walls to allow a cross draught. This often has the downside of resulting in draughts within the room. 90003 90002 90019 Solid floors 90020 of brick, tile or stone were frequently laid directly on to soil, sometimes with a bed of lime mortar or sand.Consequently, they can be cold to the touch and are difficult to thermally insulate. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90011 In historic and listed homes, insulating under floorboards requires the utmost sensitivity and care, and may be best avoided 90012 90003 90002 (Image credit: Brent Darby) 90003 90016 How to insulate a suspended timber floor 90017 90038 More from Period Living 90039 90002 90003 90002 (Image credit: Period Living) 90003 90002 90011 Period Living 90012 is the UK’s best-selling period homes magazine.Get inspiration, ideas and advice straight to your door every month with a subscription. 90003 90002 There are two priorities with suspended floors: improving the thermal insulation and draughtproofing. If there’s access from below, for example a crawl space or cellar, installing insulation is fairly straightforward. 90003 90002 The easiest method is to push quilt-type insulation into the spaces between the joists from below. This is supported with plastic garden netting tacked into place. To provide additional insulation, tongue-and-groove wood-fibre board can be fixed to the undersides of the joists.90003 90002 Insulating from above is more complex and will mean lifting floorboards. This has to be done carefully and, even then, is likely to result in damage, so is not an option if the floor is valuable aesthetically or historically. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90011 Where possible, it’s best to avoid taking up original floorboards to insulate a suspended timber floor. However, if you do go down that route, remove only a few at a time, and number and map them to ensure they can be correctly refitted 90012 90003 90002 (Image credit: Historic Scotland) 90003 90002 Unless major renovation work is being undertaken, it’s best to lift only a small number of boards at any one time, otherwise you’re likely to destabilise the joists and sleeper walls below.90003 90002 By laying garden netting over the joists so it forms troughs, quilt insulation can be laid to fill the spaces between the joists. Another option is to use a breathable membrane and then to fill the troughs with cellulose (recycled newspaper) insulation. 90003 90002 Alternatively, foil-faced foam or woodfibre insulation boards can be fitted between the joists, supported on timber battens. This can sometimes be achieved by lifting occasional floorboards and sliding the insulation into place.90003 90002 90003 90002 90011 From above or below? It’s easier to insulate if there’s access to the floor from below, and you will not have to disrupt the floorboards — here (left), quilt insulation is pushed between the joists. When insulating from above (right), a loose-fill insulation such as cellulose is breathable and will fit into every nook and cranny 90012 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90016 Draughtproofing a timber floor 90017 90002 It is worth remembering that insulation on its own does not necessarily stop draughts so you will need to 90079 ensure all gaps are filled 90080, otherwise you’ll still feel the chill and energy will be wasted because heat is being lost.90003 90002 There are many draught strips designed to go between wooden floorboards and you can find them in most DIY stores. These can easily be slotted in the gaps (and they expand with movement) to decrease draughts and heat loss. 90003 90002 90003 90002 90011 Draught-proofing suspended timber floors 90012 90011 is relatively easy using proprietary draught strip systems such as 90012 90011 DraughtEx 90012 90011 or 90012 90011 StopGap 90012 90003 90002 (Image credit: Roger Hunt) 90003 90016 How to insulate a solid floor 90017 90002 By their very nature, traditional solid floors may be slightly damp as the tiles, bricks or flags that form their surface are in direct contact with the ground below.For this reason the floor must be able to ‘breathe’, otherwise moisture will be trapped, potentially resulting in damp problems within your home. 90003 90002 It is no surprise that excessive dampness will make a floor colder. Where damp is evident, ensure external ground levels are lower than the floor, and drains and gullies are not blocked; also check that water pipes are not leaking. 90003 90002 Without lifting solid floors, it’s difficult to introduce any permanent thermal insulation, but coir or other breathable floor coverings can help.Avoid covering the floor with impermeable insulation materials or rubber-backed carpets, as they’ll trap moisture. 90003 90002 Where concrete floor slabs have replaced earlier floors, they may include a damp-proof membrane (DPM) but, unless laid comparatively recently, they might not be well insulated. 90003 90002 Where floors do include a DPM and show no evidence of moisture, laying a floating wooden floor or thermal underlay with a carpet on top is often the easiest means of improving their thermal performance.90003 90002 90003 90002 90011 A traditional solid tiled floor is usually in direct contact with the ground below. If it is not able to breathe it could result in damp, due to trapped moisture 90012 90003 90002 (Image credit: Douglas Gibb) 90003 90016 Top tips for insulating a floor 90017 90122 90123 Remember to seal all the gaps between the skirting board and the floor to prevent draughts. This needs to be done before a fitted carpet is laid, as it will not be possible afterwards. 90124 90123 Ensure you insulate thoroughly but avoid squashing insulation material, as this will seriously compromise its effectiveness.90124 90123 Consider underfloor heating if replacing a floor as this can provide a comfortable and energy efficient means of heating, especially when used in conjunction with solid floors. 90124 90123 Refrain from lifting an old floor without good reason, as it will never look the same when relaid and you may upset the equilibrium of the building. 90124 90123 Always number floorboards, flagstones, bricks or tiles with chalk if they are being lifted temporarily. 90124 90123 Do not inhibit the ability of a solid floor to ‘breathe’ by topping with impermeable layers.90124 90123 Do not obstruct external air vents under suspended timber floors, as air movement is essential to prevent damp and decay to the timber. 90124 90137 90002 90003 90002 90011 This original floor is undulating after centuries of wear 90012 90003 90002 (Image credit: Paul Dixon) 90003 90016 Replacing a concrete floor 90017 90002 If a concrete floor is being replaced because it is causing damp or other problems, limecrete offers an alternative. 90003 90002 This material is similar to concrete but does not contain cement, consisting instead of lime and aggregate, and so provides a floor slab that is vapour permeable.90003 90002 Limecrete floors are increasing widely available from suppliers such as Mike Wye & Associates and Ty-Mawr Lime; they can be insulated efficiently and can successfully incorporate underfloor heating. 90003 90016 More renovation advice 90017 .90000 Cheap Ways to Insulate Wood Floors | Home Guides 90001 90002 Wooden floors may look beautiful, but they can be very cold in the warmer months of the year as well as during winter. They are also very susceptible to drafts. An efficient and cheap insulation can make the floor more comfortable, and keep heating bills down. The insulation can also act as a vapor barrier that protects the wood from moisture damage, and make the home quieter. 90003 90004 R-Value 90005 90002 The R-value is a unit that quantifies a material’s thermal resistance.It is a common term used when buying and installing insulation. The higher the R-value, the higher the thermal resistivity. But this measures the heat resistance due to conduction only. Heat may be lost from a wooden floor by air infiltration, or drafts, radiation, and convection. 90003 90004 Carpet 90005 90002 Rugs and carpets are a first, convenient step in insulating a wooden floor. Walking on a carpet feels softer and warmer than on a wooden floor. But even a fitted carpet will not cut out all drafts.It will insulate a first floor overlying a basement or crawl space. This is probably the best solution when the crawl space is too small to be accessible for fitting cheaper versions of under floor insulation. The thicker the carpet, the greater the insulation. Carpets do not insulate second or higher floors. Synthetic carpet materials are cheaper than pure wool. But strips of cloth cut from old clothes and knitted together to make a thick floor covering can be a very effective, and cheap, insulation.90003 90004 Foil 90005 90002 Reflective foil forms a radiant barrier against heat loss. It works by reflecting back the heat from a room that passes through the floor. It also acts as a vapor barrier and stops damp from rising from a floor slab or crawl space. The foil is made of two or more sheets of aluminum foil that are separated by trapped air pockets. Some more expensive foils have a plastic reinforcement for extra strength. The foil is laid out over joists on a suspended floor with the shiny side facing upwards and nailed in place.It’s a quick and cost-effective way of fitting floor insulation into older buildings, and working in tight spaces. The foil is also very effective when installed under a concrete slab (itself beneath the wooden floor) that incorporates radiant heating. 90003 90004 Fiber 90005 90002 Fiber insulation is like putting an extra layer of clothing under a floor. It acts as a thermal barrier to the heat that escapes from the wooden floor. Polyester and fiberglass are the cheapest insulation materials.They also act as acoustic barriers but are poor barriers to rising damp. Aside from price, their main advantage is that they allow a wooden floor to expand and contract during temperature changes, called «breathing», and avoid buckling and splintering. If fibers come loose during installation, they may cause breathing irritation. 90003 90004 Polystyrene 90005 90002 Polystyrene can be cut to fit snugly between joists under a wooden floor. It comes in easily cut sheets or hollow blocks. The material acts as a good acoustic barrier and, in part, as a vapor barrier.Its main disadvantage is that it produces toxic gases when burning. This means it could become an additional fire risk in buildings with wood burning stoves or open fires. 90003.90000 How do I insulate a floor? 90001 90002 How do I insulate a floor? 90003 90004 Got cold feet about cold floors? We look at how to insulate a floor, exploring options for both a wooden floor and concrete floor, showing you how to insulate under the floor or above a concrete slab, whilst minimising thermal bridging. 90005 90006 90007 Target U-Value 90008 90004 Generally, ground floors are either solid, usually concrete slabs, or suspended, i.e. timber floorboards on joists.When uninsulated, they will both have a U-value of between 0.45W / m 90010 2 90011 K and 0.70W / m 90010 2 90011 K, but this depends on the geometry of the floor and the amount of thermal bridging. In each case the target U-value after installing insulation is between 0.20W / m 90010 2 90011 K and 0.25W / m 90010 2 90011 K (depending on floor geometry). 90006 90004 Insulating a solid floor is a lot more trouble and expensive than insulating a timber floor. Typically, the former has a payback of between 8 or 10 years or more, but the payback period for suspended timber floor insulation is between 3 and 5 years.90006 90007 Avoiding thermal bridging 90008 90004 Thermal bridging occurs where a solid building elements continues from the inside to the outside of the structure, conducting heat out or cold in. It severely compromises the value of the work and can lead to cold spots and condensation. 90006 90004 Techniques to minimise thermal bridging with insulation around floors 90006 90004 The above diagrams show how to apply insulation around the edges of building elements to prevent thermal bridging.90006 90004 Also consider in each case where the airtightness layer beneath the floor next to the one in the walls around the edges. The airtightness layer prevents unwanted draught infiltration. It can be pictured as a continuous envelope around the building. 90006 90004 For example, in the diagram above for underfloor heating, which shows how the membrane laps up the side of the insulation behind the skirting board, it should then go behind, or be taped to, the plasterboard or plaster on the walls.90006 90004 In the diagram above illustrating insulation beneath a solid floor, where it goes underneath the wall to the outside, it should then connect to any render covering the wall. 90006 90007 Best insulation material to use to insulate a floor 90008 90004 Comparing the k-values ​​of some insulants used in underfloor insulation 90006 90004 The graph above shows the relative thermal conductivity (k-value) of some insulants which might be considered for underfloor insulation. The standard choice is phenolic foam, XPS or EPS, but these are not ideal in an eco-home, as it is not a natural material but non-breathable and a product of the fossil fuel industry.90006 90004 Other materials are discussed below and compared in tables for each type of floor. Figures for k-value vary according to product so you should do your own research. These tables are guides only. 90006 90004 Phenolic foam, EPS, polyisocyanurate and XPS should only be used if space is a absolute premium. As can be seen, batts of woodfibre or mineral wool are almost as good as EPS. Cellulose is also ideal if the insulant does not have to be load-bearing. This is made of recycled newsprint.Granulated cork has also been used. 90006 90004 We will now look at how to deal with each type of floor in turn. 90006 90007 How to insulate a wooden floor 90008 90004 If there is access from below, is easy to stuff the insulation between the joists. Press the insulation against the floorboards, but do not over-compress. 90006 90004 Sheep’s wool insulation between rafters in a suspended floor, secured with netting 90006 90004 It’s possible to add more insulation than the depth of the joists permits in two stages, by, after stuffing the spaces between the joists, adding battens to the underneath of the joists and fastening the second layer of retaining boards, fabric or netting to them .90006 90004 Holes in the floorboards where pipes and other wires go through, plus the gaps around the edges and between floorboards, all need to be plugged with mastic and tapes to prevent draughts. 90006 90004 If there is no access from beneath, there is nothing for it but to take up the floorboards. 90006 90004 If there is a possibility that the room could flood, a damp proof layer should not be put beneath the insulation; instead, draught resistant fabric should be used, through which the water can drain away.90006 90004 Three stages of installing insulation beneath a suspended wooden floor 90006 90004 Here, insulation in the form of sheep’s wool has been installed between the joists and kept in place with 60mm thick wood-fibre boards. The thermal conductivity of the wood-fibre boards is 0.04W / mK. This is fully breathable. The detailing for this installation is below. The U-value for a typical semi-detached house with this configuration is 0.16W / m 90010 2 90011 K. 90006 90004 Detail for insulation beneath suspended wooden floor 90006 90007 How much insulation do I need under a wooden floor? 90008 90004 Insulation thicknesses for a suspended wooden floor 90006 90002 90003 90002 90003 90077 How to insulate a concrete floor 90078 90004 If a floor is being excavated and replaced, this is a perfect opportunity to improve the standard of insulation.A U-value of 0.2W / m 90010 2 90011 K can be achieved for a typical semi-detached dwelling using around 100mm of air-based insulation and careful detailing. Better U-values ​​could be achieved with the same thickness of higher performance materials, or a deeper thickness of the same material. 90006 90004 Insulation can be added over the existing concrete slab or under a new one. 90006 90007 Above the concrete slab 90008 90004 If the insulation is placed above the slab, the room will warm up more quickly 90005 when the heating is switched on, but cool down more quickly too — this applies to all internal insulation.90006 90004 It will also affect the floor level, which has an impact on door openings, stairs and other fixtures. This is why phenolic foam is the most common solution in this instance, because it can achieve greater insulation for less depth. 90006 90004 In this case, the damp proof membrane goes above the concrete. Moisture resistant chipboard goes on top, beneath the flooring surface. Leave room for expansion around the edges. 90006 90007 Below the concrete slab 90008 90004 Insulation below the slab is generally better, especially in a warm south-facing room, since the concrete helps absorb heat and limits overheating.90006 90004 The damp proof membrane is placed over a layer of sand to prevent it being punctured by sharp stones. As it also serves as an airtightness membrane, it laps up the sides of the walls to link to the plaster or plasterboard. 90006 90004 Insulation goes on top of this and around the edges, and concrete is poured on top of that. If underfloor heating is being used, which is fixed to the top of the concrete mix, and then a small amount of concrete poured on top of that. The floorcovering can be either tiles or floorboards, but any timber should be left in the room for some weeks with the heating on before being laid to prevent it warping.90006 90007 How much insulation do I need for a concrete floor? 90008 90004 Insulation thicknesses for a solid concrete floor 90006 90007 Why not install underfloor heating along with solid floor insulation? 90008 90004 It is highly recommended to install underfloor heating at the same time as tackling underfloor insulation, especially with solid floors. You get better value for money. 90006 90004 Underfloor heating is far more efficient than conventional central heating and gives a greater feeling of comfort.It will pay for the cost of installing it with fuel savings, as less energy is required to achieve the same feeling of warmth. 90006 90004 Section through solid floor insulation with optional underfloor heating 90006 90004 If it is a suspended floor, always leave the floorboards in the room for a few weeks with the heating on before laying them to avoid the wood warping when in place. 90006 90077 90117 Find out more — visit a refurbished home 90118 90078 90004 You can find out more about floor insulation at green open house events in September.Speak to real homeowners as they share their personal experience of refurbishing their homes as part of SuperHome Open Days. SuperHomes are older homes refurbished by their owners for greater comfort, lower bills and far fewer carbon emissions — at least 60% less! Entry is free. Book now. 90006 90004 90117 Also see: 90118 90005 Boarding a loft over insulation 90005 Retrofit underfloor heating 90005 Insulating timber suspended floor 90006 90004 90117 Notes: 90118 90006 90004 90117 A U-value 90118 is the overall rate of energy transfer (in watts) through 1m 90010 2 90011 of a particular building element when the air temperatures on either side differ by 1ºC.The lower the U-value the better the material is at preventing either the loss of heat or penetration of cold. 90006 90004 90117 R-values ​​90118 are a measure of thermal resistance, and depend on the depth (d) of the insulation material divided by its thermal conductivity (λ or k-value): R = d / λ. It is measured in m 90010 2 90011 K / W. The thermal conductivity (λ or k-value) of an insulating material is given manufacturers. The thermal resistance of each component (as well as the resistances of cavities and surfaces) is used to calculate the overall thermal resistance or R-value for the entire structural element, in this case the floor.The U-value is the reciprocal of this R-value. 90006 90004 © David Thorpe, Manager of Green Deal Advice and author of Sustainable Home Refurbishment: The Earthscan Expert Guide to Retrofitting Homes for Efficiency 90006 90004 90006 .90000 Wooden house, log house, timber house, design, construction 90001 90002 90003 Architectural and construction company «ArchiLine Wooden Houses — Houses for Health» 90004 specializes in design, production and construction of wooden houses, hotels, restaurants and saunas from rounded log, squared profiled timber and glued laminated timber. 90005 ArchiLine Ltd. has been successfully working in wooden construction market since 2004. Specialists of the З ompany have produced and built hundreds of wooden houses in different countries — Australia, Belarus, Germany, Georgia, Spain, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Lebanon, the Netherlands, UAE, Poland , Russia, France.more 90006 90002 We used for this Scandinavian wooden house «Morning» glaze antiseptic Pinyasol Color Tikkurila (color 3140) and modern ceramic tiles Roben Bergamo (color anthracite). «Morning» — one-story Scandinavian wooden house made of 200x185mm glued laminated … 90006 more 90002 Good day, visit our new article on our website. It’s June 2019 and we represent you a newly built house of glued laminated timber according to the project «Eurodom» The house, just built, rented and waiting for guests.Spacious, clear, bright. It … 90006 more 90002 You can see a video-review of this house «Mirage»: The price of this wooden house is $ 109 000. Let’s see how is it formed. 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Due to the large glazing, the second light in the house creates space, volume and a feeling of lightness and freshness.On the first level there is a salon area that … 90006 more 90002 «Poseidon» — unique with its simplicity and beauty design of a sauna of glued laminated timber, with an excellent layout: Sauna Number of rooms 3 rooms, 1 floor, pool, steam room, relaxation room Total area — 65 sq.m. Volume of wall material is 35.5 … 90006 more .