Как утеплить дом из керамзитобетонных блоков изнутри: Утепление дома из керамзитобетонных блоков снаружи и внутри

Утепление керамзитобетонного дома. Утепление дома из керамзитобетонных блоков снаружи

Утепление дома из керамзитобетонных блоков снаружи волнует многих застройщиков, поскольку данный материал все больше пользуется популярностью в малоэтажном строительстве. Рассмотрим в данной статье нужно ли утеплять керамзитоблочные стены толщиной 40 см при строительстве или когда дом уже построен. С дополнительным слоем теплоизоляции на отопление жилища будет уходить меньше средств, но утепление стен из керамзитобетона потребует затрат на покупку стройматериалов.

Малоэтажное строительство из керамзитных блоков уже давно пользуется большой популярностью. Данный материал отличается от пеноблока большей прочностью и морозоустойчивостью, но при этом керамзитобетон также имеет низкий коэффициент теплопроводности. Но при недостаточной толщине наружных стен и отсутствия , отапливать такой дом зимой будет весьма затратно.

Еще до начала возведения дома и во время кладки стен из керамзитоблока в 40 см, многие решают дополнительно утеплить частный дом, чтобы сэкономить на отоплении. Керамзитобетон весьма прочный материал, но не является самым теплым, в отличие от арболитовых и пенобетонных блоков. Рассмотрим, как и чем утеплить дом из керамзитобетонных блоков своими руками.

Для защиты фасада и наружных стен дома от промерзания необходим слой теплоизоляции не менее 10 см. Для этих задач можно использовать пенополистирол или минеральную вату, которые крепятся на фасаде с наружной стороны дома. Расскажем в следующей главе, как самостоятельно утеплить дом из керамзитоблоков снаружи и изнутри, какую теплоизоляцию лучше всего использовать в работе.

Чем утеплить дом из керамзитобетонных блоков

Строители рекомендуют утеплять фасад дома в определенной последовательности – чем ниже паропроницаемость материала, тем он ближе должен находиться к улице в «пироге» утепления. Материал с большей паропроницаемостью должен находиться ближе к отапливаемому помещению. Но самый идеальный вариант – возводить стены без утеплителей, рассчитав на толщину стен.

Утепление дома из керамзитоблока минваты

Многие застройщики считают, что при утеплении кирпичного дома или стен из керамзитоблока предпочтение отдать лучше каменной вате. Преимущество минваты от пенополистирола в огнестойкости и безопасности для здоровья человека. Но применение стекловаты и базальтовой ваты, обязывает при укладке волокнистого утеплителя на фасаде использовать для защиты от влаги.

Утепление дома из керамзитоблока пенопластом

При наружном утеплении керамзитоблока пенопластом следует помнить, что пенополистирол следует защищать от механических повреждений сайдингом или фасадной штукатуркой. Главное преимущество плит пенополистирола в низкой стоимости материала и простоте монтажа. Плиты пенопласта крепятся на фасаде из керамзитоблока с помощью и дюбель-грибков.

Утепление дома из керамзитоблока пеноплексом

Экструдированный пенополистирол – это плотный и прочный утеплитель, который не боится влаги. Благодаря своим характеристикам экструзия идеально подходит для фундаментов и утепления отмостки дома. Пенополистрольную теплоизоляцию лучше всего использовать с улицы, так как материал пожароопасный, а при высокой температуре выделяет вредные для человека вещества – стиролы.

Утепление дома из керамзитоблоков своими руками

Рассмотрим несколько вариантов защиты блоков из керамзитобетона от промерзания снаружи и изнутри. Для утепления дома изнутри не используйте пенополистирол, утепление всегда лучше производить с улицы. Какого бы производителя минеральной ваты вы не выбрали, следует помнить, что утеплитель необходимо защищать пароизоляционной пленкой со стороны теплого помещения.

Как выполнить утепление дома из керамзитоблоков снаружи

Если у дома выложены стены из керамзитоблока в 40 сантиметров без облицовки , то утеплить дом можно при помощи укладки утеплителя между блоками и кирпичом. Несмотря на эффективность данного метода, он отличается сложностью работ и большими затратами, связанными с оплатой труда профессиональных каменщиков. Рассмотрим вариант теплоизоляции, который можно сделать своими руками.

Утепления стен из керамзитоблока снаружи можно провести с помощью облицовки дома плитной теплоизоляцией с обшивкой сайдингом. Пенополистирол крепится на фасад с помощью клея и дополнительно закрепляется по углам дюбель-грибками. Поверх пенопласта наклеивается малярная сетка и фасад шпаклюется. При обшивке фасада са

90000 How to Insulate an Exterior Face of a Concrete Block Wall | Home Guides 90001 90002 The word «insulation» typically brings to mind lofty batts of spun fiberglass, rigid foam panels and blown-in cellulose. For decades, the best way to insulate concrete block was on the interior of the wall, which required framing another wall up against the concrete and insulating between the studs. Today, with the use of Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems (EIFS), you can add R-value to your concrete block wall on the outside.As of 2012 the application of EIFS, which gives the wall a stuccolike look, is only available through certified EIFS contractors. 90003 90004 Preparation 90005 90002 Consult your local building authority before having EIFS applied to the exterior of your house or building. Most local codes require a building permit before changing the dimensions of an exterior structure, and the application of EIFS will add about 3 inches to the exterior of the wall. If the existing wall has cracks or loose blocks, make repairs before installing EIFS.90003 90004 Installation 90005 90002 The contractor applies a layer of adhesive over the surface of the concrete blocks and then installs a vapor barrier and high-density rigid foam board insulation on top of that. The next layer of steel grid or mesh attaches with mechanical fasteners, drilled into the concrete blocks. A semisolid base coat, containing expanded polystyrene (EPS) goes next, followed by a topcoat. You can choose a topcoat color or customize it by adding aggregate. 90003 90004 Expansion Joints 90005 90002 Expansion joints might be necessary to control future wall movement.The number and placement of these joints varies, but typically they’re positioned over existing expansion joints in the concrete block wall, in large fields of EIFS, and where the EIFS abuts other types of exterior cladding, such as brick or stone. The expansion joints run from the surface of the cladding all the way to the concrete wall, so they must be sealed to prevent moisture from entering the joints. 90003 90004 Considerations 90005 90002 Like other types of siding, EIFS should not come into contact with the soil.Local codes determine the minimum distance between soil level and the bottom of the EIFS, which is generally around 6 inches. One of the downsides to EIFS is the inability to patch cracks or spalling without having to reinstall the base and topcoat from wall to wall. This makes it inadvisable to install the system over concrete block wall that cracks frequently, due to soil or foundation settling or movement. 90003.90000 installation technology, varieties and reviews 90001 90002 Ceramsite concrete blocks in modernconstruction began to be used very often. This material has a relatively low weight, good strength, excellent thermal conductivity and low cost. However, given the specific features of such products, the question of which one to choose the foundation for a house of expanded clay blocks is often asked by novice masters and even experienced builders. 90003 90004 General information 90005 90002 First, it should be noted that these types of blockspractically do not differ from other piece materials with the same dimensions.They fit on the typical grounds, and only with the use of piles it is necessary to make certain additions to the design. Therefore, in order to determine which one to choose the foundation for the house from expanded clay blocks, it is worth considering all types of these systems and determining their characteristics for certain types of structures. 90003 90004 Kinds of bases 90005 90002 In modern construction there are three typesfoundations that are used most often. They are great for working with this material and have a relatively low cost.However, if a foundation is created for a two-storey house made of expanded clay blocks, then it is worth taking a very careful look at this choice. Therefore, their features, scope and manufacturing methods will be further described. 90003 90004 Plate constructions 90005 90002 This type of base is excellent forsmall buildings. It is very easy to manufacture and at the same time the cost of erection will be minimal. However, it is very important to note the fact that such a foundation for a house made of expanded-clay concrete blocks should be made only on stable ground.It is also necessary to understand that this type of construction is chosen for single-storey houses, and in the manufacturing process, the absence of a basement is understood. 90003 90004 Manufacturing of plate foundation 90005 90002 The process takes place in several stages: 90003 90020 90021 First you need to prepare the soil. For this, the place under the base is cleared and a little deepened. 90022 90021 At the next stage, the ground is compacted so that the foundation under the house of claydite-concrete blocks has a solid foundation.90022 90021 Then they make a pillow made of sand and rubble. It should not protrude beyond the edges of the recess. 90022 90021 Next, install a small formwork and make a fill throughout the area. Its height should be 10-15 cm. 90022 90021 After the solution has solidified, reinforcement is made on the surface using metal structures. 90022 90021 At the final stage, the screed is poured clean. It is possible to build on such a foundation only in a month, since this is the minimum time required for the concrete to completely solidify.90022 90033 90004 Belt constructions 90005 90002 It is believed that the ribbon foundation of the housekeramzitobetonnyh blocks the most reliable and practical. He is not afraid of soil movements, temperature changes and other external influences that other structures can not tolerate. In this case, this type of base allows you to create a basement room, which can be made warm. However, it is necessary to take into account the fact that it is necessary to plan large expenses and time for its manufacture.90003 90002 It should be noted that this type of foundation can beto create both from concrete, and with use of special blocks. The choice of a particular material depends only on the personal preferences of the customer and his financial capabilities. However, if it is planned to make a warm basement, then the use of blocks is more rational. 90003 90004 Manufacture of tape base 90005 90020 90021 To make a strip foundation under the house fromclaydite concrete blocks, first you need to excavate the trench along the perimeter of the future structure.Its depth should be at least 80 cm. However, this parameter is best coordinated with the architect at the design stage. It depends on the technical characteristics of the building. 90022 90021 In some cases it is worth digging a trench and underinterroom partitions. If an oven or stairs are installed in the room, then this should be done at the place of their subsequent installation. 90022 90021 Next, compact the soil and fall asleep on the bottom of a layer of crushed stone with sand. It should be about 30 cm high.90022 90021 The next step is to protect the futureconstruction against moisture. For this, polyethylene film is laid on the walls of the trench. Some builders prefer to use ruberoid or other materials based on bitumen for these purposes. 90022 90021 In order for the foundation for a single-storey house ofkeramzitobetonnyh blocks was strong, it is necessary to perform reinforcement. Metal structures are laid in a trench, tying together a wire. Some specialists for ligament are advised to use welding, but then the product will lose its elasticity.90022 90021 The next stage of the preparatory workinvolves the installation of formwork. Usually it is created in such a way that it rises above the ground to a height of about 10 cm. For this use sheets of plywood or boards. 90022 90021 The foundation is poured using concrete. Usually apply the class B-15 or B-20. 90022 90021 After pouring the foundation, you need to survive for at least 20 days before your complete hardening. 90022 90033 90004 Piles 90005 90002 This foundation for a single-storey house ofexpanded clay blocks is considered one of the most practical.It is easy to erect, the cost of construction is relatively small and it is possible to begin construction of the building right after installation. However, one should immediately mention that there are many types of piles that are designed for a certain type of soil and the corresponding construction of the building. 90003 90002 It should also be remembered that for the installation of sometypes of this material may require a special technique. Under the houses of expanded clay, metal screw piles are usually chosen, which can be installed manually, without resorting to special equipment.90003 90002 Particular attention must be paid to the fact thatsuch a foundation can also allow the creation of a basement. However, this requires a special wiring around the perimeter with additional insulation. 90003 90004 Manufacturing of pile foundation 90005 90020 90021 First of all, you need to determine the size of the foundationhouses made of expanded clay blocks. For this, a special project is created, which is called a pile field. It shows the location of all the supports, indicating the distance from each other.90022 90021 If the house plans to install a stove or stair flights, then in the places of their installation also mounts to create a separate foundation. 90022 90021 The next step is to level the territory. This is done not only for the convenience of subsequent work, but also for determining the level of future surfaces. 90022 90021 Next, you need to drill holes in the groundon the places indicated in the pile field. The depth is measured based on the structural features of the supports themselves, which is usually indicated in the instruction manual.90022 90021 Then, using a special tool, the piles themselves begin to install themselves. They are screwed to a certain depth, which corresponds to the parameters of a particular product. 90022 90021 When all the piles are located in their places, you need to make their harness. For these purposes, a metal channel is used, which is welded along the perimeter of the structure and in the area of ​​the arrangement of the partitions. 90022 90021 Further it is recommended to create a kind of armopause.To do this, make a small formwork, which is poured with concrete. This is where the blocks will need to be installed. 90022 90021 Some masters recommend producingthe subsequent sewing of the foundation along the entire perimeter. It is best to use flat slate or metal profile. If necessary, it is possible to insulate the entire structure. 90022 90033.90000 Preventing mold when you insulate your basement 90001 90002 Basements do not have to be moldy, that is the first thing to realize. 90003 90004 90005 It’s easy to build a basement better, or to finish an existing basement correctly 90006, we just need to realize that they behave differently than above grade walls and to build accordingly to effectively deal with the humidity found underground — 90005 and by doing so , stop the conditions that promote mold growth 90006.90009 90004 Depending on the age of your home, you may have some interior basement insulation or maybe none. You may have an exterior damp-proofing spray on foundation walls but likely not a proper drainage mat and perimeter drain or basement flood prevention measures. 90009 90004 Outside upgrades are the ideal correction given the way basement walls were left exposed in the past; however, unless you have serious structural problems or plan to excavate for other reasons, that can be an enormous extra cost for an interior renovation project.It is much more affordable to deal with most humidity issues inside the building. The basement insulation solutions proposed here are for those that have no exterior protection. 90009 90002 What causes mold to grow in basements? 90003 90004 90005 Mold can grow on virtually any organic material 90006 as long as the moisture levels it likes and oxygen are present. 90009 90004 Because mold eats or digests what it is growing on, it can damage a building and its furnishings. If left unchecked, mold eventually can cause structural damage to building materials and can cause health problems — that’s why we do not want mold in our basements! 90009 90004 Specifically we can prevent damage to buildings and building contents in the basement areas, save money and avoid these potential health problems by controlling moisture, where humidity in the air condenses, and by so eliminating mold growth.90009 90004 90005 Quick Fact Check: 90006 Eliminating all mold and mold spores indoors is virtually impossible, but controlling indoor moisture and the hidden moisture within basement wall assemblies will control the growth of indoor mold. 90009 90004 According to the EPA, indoor relative humidity (RH) in homes should be kept below 60 percent — ideally between 30 percent and 50 percent, In addition to preventing mold forming, maintaining the correct humidity levels may also have a bonus effect — discouraging pests such as cockroaches, silverfish (bristletails) and dust mites from populating the man-cave! 90009 90004 So, Step one, getting a humidity meter and tracking the relative humidity level in your basement is the first part of understanding the mold problem in any home or basement.90009 90004 Compare budget options and special offers for manual humidity meters here (we’ve tried and like the ThermoPro TP 50) 90009 90004 Or if you have a 90005 Smart home 90006 or are heading that way, 90005 See here to compare humidity meters online including smart trackers and alarms and find special offers and reviews 90006 90009 90002 Where the moisture is, and where it wants to go: 90003 90004 90005 The key to building better mold free basements 90006 is to understand that there is a completely different set of challenges facing walls built below grade.90009 90004 The greatest source of moisture to contend with above grade is the warm, humid air generated by cooking, washing and simply breathing. Below grade, it is that big porous sponge called concrete that is sucking up water from the wet ground. 90009 90004 A different problem demands a different solution — wearing a raincoat will keep you dry when standing in a cold rain, but it will not keep you dry when jogging under a hot sun. And unfortunately for many homeowners, the way basements were finished for the last few decades is about as logical as jogging in a raincoat.90009 90004 Above grade, walls are designed to dry to the exterior. That is impossible below grade, but for some reason we still build as if it were. Despite the fact that interior vapour barriers in below grade wall assemblies are commonplace, frustrated building scientists insist that installing them is the worst thing you could possibly do down there. 90009 90052 Basement renovations demonstrating mold growth in internal stud wall © Ecohome 90004 Above is a photo of a basement being repaired after flooding.The mold damage you see is from longterm moisture exposure, not the one-time flooding event. This was a typical basement wall assembly, with a stud wall directly against the foundation followed by fiberglass insulation and a vapour barrier. Notice the difference between the studs against the foundation and the studs that formed an interior division wall; the vapour barrier did not protect the exterior wall from damage and mold growth. It caused the damage by prevented the wall from drying to the interior and instead sealed the moisture in.90009 90004 As one of the foremost authorities on healthy basement construction, Professor John Straube of the University of Waterloo dubbed this typical type of wall assembly a «mold incubation chamber». For further convincing on the topic, read ‘Built wrong from the start’ by Joseph Lstiburek of Building Science Corporation. 90009 90002 Better basement insulation techniques: 90003 90004 90005 The materials and design you choose are very important to prevent mold 90006 and should be appropriate for the environment they are destined to inhabit.Be very careful how and where you install wood and fiberglass insulation in basements (If you must), and be sure they will not see prolonged exposure to moisture or contact with humid surfaces if you do not want them to go moldy. 90009 90002 Spray polyurethane foam (SPUF): 90003 90004 90005 When SPUF works out, it can be one of the better performing products 90006 in basement applications. Being sprayed directly onto concrete walls, it ensures an even and total protection. SPUF has a high R value per inch, acts as an air barrier and a vapour barrier.However, it has been known to shrink after application, leaving air gaps and a lack of thermal protection. 90009 90004 Another downside to the original SPUF is that some blowing agents have a high global warming potential (GWP). For this reason, we like to explore less harmful alternatives whenever possible — though 90005 * January 2018 update: new blowing agents for spray foam virtually eliminate green house gases, read more here. 90006 90009 90004 Probably the most worrisome problem (as reported by a SPUF installer) is that there is a great temptation for installation contractors to tinker with the chemical mix a bit, giving it more volume with less material, which is more profitable for the installers.There are not a lot of reported cases of this, but when it goes wrong it goes very wrong. Personally, I would not let someone spray foam in my house without some pretty good references that I followed up. 90009 90004 All that said, here’s how to proceed if you plan to insulate a basement with SPUF: 90009 90077 90078 90005 Frame a 2×4 stud wall at 24 «centres 90006 leaving a gap of at least one inch between studs and concrete. 90081 90078 90005 Shim up bottom plates 90006 to allow for water to pass under in cases of mild flooding.90081 90078 90005 Have foam sprayed against the concrete wall 90006. The space left between concrete and studs is crucial to allow a seamless blanket of insulation to create an air and vapour barrier. Unprotected wood touching concrete will wick moisture and eventually rot. One inch of SPUF will solve your problems; four or 5 inches will reduce heat loss and save you money in the long run. 90081 90078 90005 Have insulation blown onto rim joists 90006 if it is not already done. 90081 90078 90005 Foam must be covered by drywall 90006 for fire protection.90081 90078 90005 Do not install an additional vapour barrier behind drywall 90006; latex paint will act in this capacity. 90081 90102 90103 Spray foam or SPUF being installed correctly on basement walls © Bala Structures 90004 There have been a few nightmare cases reported where a SPUF installation went very wrong and apparently made homes uninhabitable. Given the fact that application involves a wet spray that hardens on surfaces, it is very difficult to remove. 90009 90004 These reported cases are rare, but if you are at all concerned, there are alternatives to spray foam for insulating basements listed below that work well in the battle against moldy basements.90009 90002 EPS (Expanded Polystyrene), XPS (Extruded Polystyrene), Mineral wool: 90003 90004 90005 SPUF is quite expensive; so rigid insulation panels and a 2×4 wall with batt insulation can be a much more affordable option 90006 — but you need to know the right techniques for a succesful and mold-free wall assembly for a basement application — read on! 90009 90004 Rigid insulation board against concrete adds R value, breaks the thermal bridge and raises the temperature of the stud wall, which helps prevent moist air from condensing.The stud wall allows for the installation of wiring, additional insulation and drywall. 90009 90004 Drywall should be attached directly to studs, latex paint will act as a vapour retarder slowing any outward moisture migration while also allowing walls to dry inwards. 90009 90004 You may hear that EPS is somewhat moisture permeable; this is true, but only slightly so and not enough to be a problem. According to Professor Straube, two inches of EPS has a perm rating in the range of 60-75 ng, or 1-1.25 US perms, which is right on the cusp of what is defined by building code as a suitable vapour barrier (60ng and under). 90009 90004 At that level of moisture permeability, an almost immeasurably small amount of moisture will be able to migrate into the wall, but with no interior vapour barrier it will pass through harmlessly. EPS, XPS and mineral wool are unharmed by moisture, and perhaps most importantly, EPS and XPS are unlikely to provide a breeding ground for mold. 90009 90004 A polyethelene barrier can be included without causing harm (as seen below), as long as it is behind the stud wall, not in front.Specified correctly for basement Radon Mitigation, this will also act as a radon gas barrier to protect indoor air quality, and it will satisfy building inspectors who are not accustomed to seeing a wall without a vapour barrier and may not allow you to continue. 90009 90124 Radon gas prevention and remedial insulation in basements © Ecohome 90004 Note: the above diagram shows an ideal and complete basement renovation beginning with breaking and removing the existing concrete floor. Most older basements have very limited head room and owners are often reluctant to lower it even more by adding insulation to the floor.It also allows for the addition of a radon evacuation stack, which is the perforated tube and T-junction in this image. 90009 90004 By removing the concrete floor and maybe some of the dirt below it, you have room to insulate properly. Removing existing concrete is not as tough as it sounds — it can usually be smashed with a sledge hammer and removed in pieces. It does involve some hard work and heavy lifting, but the end result will not only be a more efficient and comfortable home, but a more valuable one at a time of resale and less likely to create the conditions that are best avoided — high humidity plus likely condensation points — both factors in producing a moldy, unhealthy basement.90009 90002 The ideal Basement wall assembly to prevent mold growth: 90003 90077 90078 90005 Install two inches of rigid insulation board directly against concrete 90006. It is easiest to attach it to the wall with a couple of concrete nails or even some adhesive while you frame walls. 90081 90078 90005 Frame an interior 2×4 stud wall at 24 inch centres 90006, pressed tightly against the foam panels. 90081 90078 90005 Install mineral wool batts in the cavities 90006. Mineral wool is unharmed by moisture, and if it gets wet it will retain its shape and R value when it dries; fiberglass is not so resilient.90081 90078 90005 Lastly, install drywall and paint it with a latex paint 90006 only. 90081 90102 90004 This technique of rigid and batt insulation may require a few more steps, but it can offer you a greater R value per dollar invested than SPUF and it allows you to do a lot more (or all) of the work yourself. 90009 90004 For reasons beyond just performance, we prefer mineral wool or EPS over XPS. XPS has a slightly higher R value per inch, but like SPUF, the blowing agents are exponentially more harmful, about 200 times more than EPS.90009 90002 What else helps prevent mold growing in basements? Ventilation! 90003 90004 90005 Another considerable improvement in keeping basements mold-free is to ensure adequate ventilation 90006. Whilst cracking open a window if your basement has them is fine if the humidity conditions outside are favorable, that’s pretty hard to judge; so a better alternative is to choose a good quality discounted HRV or ERV system with an automatic electronic humidity control. 90009 90004 Along with removing contaminants from the air, there are health consequences from having either too much or too little moisture in our homes.There are bacteria, viruses, moulds and mites that will show up on either end of the spectrum if your air is either too humid or too dry. 90009 90004 As the EPA say, somewhere in the range of 35 to 50% relative humidity is generally assumed to be the best for avoiding most health risks and irritants. It’s high enough that you will not have cracked furniture, chapped lips or constant nose bleeds, and it’s not too damp for comfort, condensation or heat consumption issues. 90009 90004 If you’re in an older home sat above a basement, do not panic.What we write in these pages is meant to inspire ideas and solutions, not fear and anxiety. If you feel good, your basement smells good and your windows (and walls) are not dripping, relax! 90009 90004 However, if your basement has a certain musty smell, or telltale black mildew and mold marks in corners or behind furniture, for peace of mind consider buying a hydrometer to measure your indoor relative humidity, which will cost you maybe $ 20 to $ 30 at most hardware stores. If you have an issue, and the humidity levels are off the scale, then 90005 chances are you’ve got a moldy basement even if you can not see it yet… 90006 90009 90169 90005 To be certain, get a humidity monitor and track humidity levels, see here 90006 90172 90169 Top Tips: For a healthy, mold-free & comfortable basement: 90172 90175 Further reading for basement mold prevention: 90176 .90000 Best Methods For Insulating Basement Walls 90001 90002 By Todd Fratzel on Basements, Insulation 90003 90004 90005 Best Methods For Insulating Basement Walls 90006 90002 I’ve written several articles on 90008 insulating basement walls 90009 and evolved some of my methods over time. Basements provide for a very challenging insulation problem. Basements are a challenge because of high moisture levels and cooler temperatures. In this article I’d like to summarize some of my experience with 90010 insulating basement walls 90011.90003 90013 Basement Insulation Reference 90014 90002 Most of my methods are based on information from Building Science.com. They have a really great publication that you can download called: «90010 Renovating Your 90017 Basement 90011» Research Report — 0308, 2003 (revised 2007) by Building Science Corporation. This publication is really concise and full of great information. 90003 90013 Understanding Basement Insulation Problems 90014 90002 I can not tell you how many finished basements I’ve seen with wood framed walls directly against the concrete and the cavities of the framing filled with fiberglass insulation in direct contact with the concrete foundation walls.This type of details almost always leads to a serious mold problem and obviously a potentially risky health concern for your family. 90003 90002 Most people do not understand the microscopic composition of concrete and often overlook the significant moisture levels present in concrete. I often have people say to me «the concrete walls are 90008 very 90009 dry». I hate to be the bearer of bad news but 90008 ALL 90009 concrete has significant levels of moisture present in it. If you were to look at concrete under a microscope you’d be surprised to see how many small voids or «pores» exist.Concrete actually acts like a sponge and those pores contain lots of water. So you 90008 MUST 90009 assume that your concrete is fully saturated and full of water in order to properly insulate your basement walls. 90003 90005 Insulation Materials Are The Key 90006 90002 The key to successfully insulating basement walls is selecting insulating materials that stop moisture movement and prevent mold growth. Basements are the perfect location for foam type insulation products. Cellulose is also an option for basements but it’s not a product that I’ll cover here.I wrote Insulating A Basement with Cellulose which uses both foam and cellulose to insulate a basement for a Energy Star Home. 90003 90013 Spray Foam 90014 90002 Spray foam is probably the best possible insulation material for basements and damp areas. Closed cell spray foam is perfect for locking «out» the water vapor that inherintely wants to migrate from your damp basement walls to your finished basement rooms. Spray foam offers several benefits including additional structural stability, great vapor barrier, easily covers pipes, wires and other utilities and it provides exception R values.The problems with spray foam are it’s substantial price tag (although this will get better with time) and it’s a very messy task. However, if you can afford the cost and mess then this is the ultimate insulation product. 90003 90013 Foam Board 90014 90002 The next best basement insulating method is using foam board products. This is the method that we use most often and it’s the method that most DIY folks can handle. It’s also quite a bit cheaper than spray foam so it’s an attractive alternative.There are lots of foam board products on the market so I suggest you read Foam Board Insulation Types and R Values ​​for a quick education on the different products available. 90003 90002 The key to using foam board is choosing the correct thickness and sealing it properly to create an effective vapor barrier. If you’re just going to use foam board then you’ll most likely need 2 to 4 inches in thickness depending on local energy code requirements. I recommend sealing all the joints with Tyvek (or similar) house wrap tape.You can also use «Great Stuff» spray foam in a can to seal around all your utilities and also along the bottom of the foam board. For more information on using foam board I recommend you read How To Insulate Basement Walls with Polystyrene Insulation. 90003 90013 Hybrid Foam & Fiberglass Insulation 90014 90002 The last method that I’ve used is a hybrid system of foam board and fiberglass. This method is the least expensive yet I believe it will perform well in basements that do not have visual signs of water infiltration.This method should NOT be used if you have a history of water, even small amounts. 90003 90002 In this method you’ll be installing a layer of foam board, sealing it as noted above. Then you’ll frame a wall (wood or steel as I do not believe there is much difference) in front of the foam board. Finally you’ll install fiberglass insulation in the stud cavities. Again the key here is to come up with the proper R value based on local energy codes. Most references say that you should NOT use a vapor barrier over the fiberglass insulation in this method.I’m not sure if I agree with that but it’s certainly a gray area. 90003 90013 Vapor Barriers 90014 90002 There have been tons of questions about whether or not to use a vapor barrier. The discussion is complicated so we wrote another article about the topic. Please check out: 90008 Vapor Barriers For Basement Insulation 90009. 90003 90005 Basement Insulation Summary 90006 90002 The bottom line is not all basements are acceptable for finished space. Too often people try and «force» a finished basement when it’s not practicle due to flooding and water problems.All of these methods assume you do not have any serious water problems in your basement. The key is using foam insulation effectively to separate the damp concrete or block from framing and insulation products that promote mold growth. I hope this article will help you decide which basement insulation method is best for your home. 90003.